RV Refrigerator – Propane and Electric

So, you have an RV and it has a refrigerator.  Yeah!  No more ice chests and bags of leaky ice for you. Truly this is one of the best conveniences of RVing – the RV refrigerator.  But how does it work?  Does it really keep food cold? (you have heard stories), and what if it stops working?  Well read on and find out these answers and more.

RV Refrigerator Power Supply

One of the most common misconceptions about RV refrigerators is that they need an electrical supply to work.  Well that would take all the fun out of boon-docking or going off the grid, wouldn’t it?

Nearly all RV Refrigerators are capable of running on electricity or LP gas (propane).  There is a DSI (Direct Spark Igniter) that sparks the flame when you are using LP Gas. This igniter gets its power from the 12-volt house battery (no electrical power needed).




In most cases it is recommended to use the refrigerator in the LP gas mode, this way the refrigerator is working while you are rolling.  RV refrigerators are designed in such a way that it is safe to have them on (a burning flame) during travel.  However when camped for extended periods or when 110-volt electricity is available, switching to A/C (electric) operation is advisable to conserve on your LP gas supply.

How Does it Work?

In a nutshell, the theory is, when there is an absence of heat, there is cold. Basically, your RV refrigerator uses heat, either from an electric heating element or an LP-gas flame. The heat starts a chemical reaction, and evaporation and condensation causes the refrigerator to cool. Read More…

Rule #1 for RV Refrigerators

Basic Bubble Level

When the RV is parked or stationary, a level condition must exist for the refrigerator to operate properly or at all.  While there are more expensive levels on the market, this one featured on the left will serve your purposes and can be kept in the freezer compartment at all time.

Parking the RV for only an hour in a tilted or not level condition may damage the refrigerator and/or cause it to turn off.  If you expect to be un-level, it is advisable to turn off the refrigerator until you are level again.

Optimal Operation and Cooling

Remember that the refrigerator cools from the top down so the freezer is the coldest part and the top shelves the next, and the bottom drawers are the least cool.  Before putting any food in the refrigerator it is recommended to turn it on at least 2 hours prior to use.  Load your refrigerator as follows:

• Freezer for frozen food.  Try to put already frozen food in the freezer and do not overload – leave room for air to circulate around the food.
• top shelves should be reserved for more perishable items such as milk and meats
• lower shelves and door for condiments and juices
• drawers for fruits and vegetables.

Do Not Crowd the food – leave ample room for air to circulate.  Follow these simple guidelines and you will have a pleasant refrigerator experience.

Safety During Travel

• DO NOT store heavy items in the door of the refrigerator or on the top rack
• Secure the travel latched on the doors whenever the RV is moving
• Always turn the refrigerator OFF when filling the RV LP gas tank or filling the RV with gasoline

To Operate the Refrigerator on LP Gas (propane)

• Set the selector to GAS and press it until the FLAME INDICATOR begins to glow (normally 10 seconds)
• Turn GAS Ignition switch on and leave it
• Put the thermostat on at least 3, and switch the power switch to the gas position – when you do this, the check light will come on indicating that the refrigerator is trying to light itself (The lighting process may take up to 20 seconds)

Sometimes the check light goes off for a few minutes then reappears.   If this happens turn the power switch to the OFF position again and then put it back to the GAS position.  When you do this, the electronic ignition is sparking and the refrigerator is trying to pump propane to the refrigerator burner.




NOTE:  Sometimes the gas line loses propane pressure if it has not been used for a while and you will have to repeat these steps several times.  Once the check light goes out and remains out for more than 30 seconds, your refrigerator has ignited properly and may now be left running.

To Operate the Refrigerator on Electricity

• Set the selector to ELECT and the gas ignition to OFF
• Set the thermostat as desired – 2 or 3 works best

Troubleshooting RV Refrigerator Problems

A great place to begin your self-education would be with the owner’s manual.  If you have purchased a new RV then the refrigerator should be covered by a manufacture’s warranty and you therefore possess the Owner’s Manual (I’m a big fan of manuals).   However, if you do not have the manuals, they can often be obtained on-line from the manufacturer.  No need to print it, just be aware that it is there.

The refrigerator will not cool properly: Most RV Refrigerators are absorption type refrigerators and are dramatically affected by outside temperatures.  If the refrigerator is 40-60 degrees cooler than the outside temperature – it is operating as it should and is okay. However if there is no cooling then check the following:

For L/P Operation

1. Make sure you have propane in the tank
2. Make sure the LP gas supply valve is OPEN (turn to the left)
3. Check the condition of the house battery at the monitor panel
4. Make certain the RV is LEVEL, if not –  level it
5. Check to see that the ON/OFF switch on the refrigerator is ON
6. Check the thermostat settings
7. Make sure the LP Leak detector is functioning

For Electric Operation

1. Make sure that the shoreline power cord is properly plugged into a LIVE receptacle
2. Make certain the RV is LEVEL, if not, level it
3. Check the thermostat settings
4. Check that ground fault interceptor (GFI) circuit breaker to see that it is ON

Finally – if it is a faulty part, RV Refrigerator Parts are readily available on-line!